Condor Moment

Road Trip Day Twenty One

"Highway closed twenty miles ahead. Did it say open from 16.00 hr?" We were driving south along Highway One which clings to and twists around the cliffs of the Pacific coast. Condors were an aim of the day. I had been told of a point where they roosted and great views of these huge birds could be obtained. We were going south anyway, so stopping for a while to see these magnificent creatures did not even give rise to a diversion.

We found the required landmarks but could not see Condors along the cliff, in the trees or at wing. Seeking local knowledge at the Coast Gallery and Cafe the news came the Condors could be seen at many points and at various times but there was no specific place or time - you just had to keep your eyes open. We enjoyed the coffee and sought clarification of the road closure also. 

There had been a rock slide and the highway was only open for a few hours from 16.00 hrs each day. There was no way round without retracing our steps back to Monterey and going inland. We were in no rush and decided to enjoy the views and overlooks en route. I got a few pics which do show a little of the great scenery but don't do it justice at all - the light being too high and harsh for landscape photos.

Private? Criminal!

Beach Waterfall

We obtained a reasonable position in the throng of vehicles halted by the road closure and within less than an hour of waiting we on our way. Just before Cambria - our turn point inland to the east - we stopped for the night at San Simeon Campground. We have been trying to cut down on the long driving days and hoped to make the most of the coast tomorrow before leaving the ocean behind us. 

We never did see any Condors but it was a small negative to an otherwise lovely travelling day. Wifey thought the drive was beautiful. GC didn't care for it although can't give any reasons why. Troubled child!

Pacific Coast

Road Trip Days Nineteen And Twenty

Two very relaxing days. Just 90 odd miles down the beautiful Pacific Coast Highway through Santa Cruz and on towards Monterey stopping at Moss Landing. A winding road which affords spectacular views over the ocean and lots of little beaches to stop and relax.

We broke the journey once for a picnic break. GC had great fun beachcombing and getting us all wet by challenging us to "chase the waves" - a fun game she invented to see who could get as close to the incoming water without actually getting wet. We played this over the course of the day at various times. None of us stayed dry but only GC actually fell over!

Can't catch me!

Mummy save me!

Daddy I've got wet knickers!

Time for some posing

Found an RV park at Moss Landing - a nice little arty seaside place which also is a good place to join whale watching boat trips. We booked for the next day and then treated ourselves to another dinner out. Well why not when you have a renowned fish eatery - Phil's Fish Market - on your very doorstep? We all enjoyed the food and wifey was really glad to get a some great Clam Chowder in a Sourdough bun. The live blue-grass band were pretty darn good too!

Yummy!

Next day was still and calm as we joined the whale watching boat - Sanctuary. Along with us, as passengers, there were five Spanish tourists, a pair of pro looking photographers - one from Norway and one local, and a television crew from Channel 5 (UK). They were getting footage for a documentary called 'Whale Adventure' due for screening around Christmas 2012 looking at the migration of Grey Whales from Baja to Alaska. It sounds interesting.

Mike the captain and Dorris the guide explained the drill and dished out sea sickness stuff to those who wanted it. We were going to get a sea band for GC but none would fit her. The Spaniards got one each but no one else bothered. We set off into Monterey Bay. The wind was expected to increase later and Captain Mike wanted to make as much distance as he could before conditions got too rough.

Straight out for an hour to the mouth of the bay didn't provide any sightings. GC was really enjoying riding on the bow riding the waves though. Unfortunately, at some point she came aft to the rear of the cabin to shelter from the wind and then some sea sickness caught her. She spent the rest of the trip looking miserable and cuddling Mummy.

Lenses at the ready!

We spent about three hours in total looking around the bay and didn't spot any whales. The wind had got up and there was lots of swell and white caps. The guys with big lenses thought they spotted one and started shouting excitingly. I couldn't see any sign of whales and could only spy some big patches of floating sea weed. The captain also thought the same and nothing came their excitement. The length of their lenses had been making me feel slightly inadequate but now I felt somewhat better.

Once back into the harbour GC perked up on the flatter surface and we all got a close up with the various Pelicans, Sea Lions and Sea Otters resident in the area. As we hadn't seen any Whales though we were entitled to a free repeat trip on another day. We wondered if we should try again the next day but decided we didn't want to risk another disappointing, nausea inducing trip for GC. One of the guys from the TV crew had told me about some Condors which roosted just near the highway about an hour south on our intended route. We had a plan for tomorrow!

San Francisco

Road Trip Day Eighteen

Wifey's Version

We woke in our RV outside San Francisco quite late, about 9am which is a BIG lie in for anyone with a 6 yr old. The swimming pool which had seemed quite warm in the cool night air last night was less inviting this morning. GC couldn't be tempted in past her knees and Hubby went swiftly for the hot tub where we spent most of our 40 min 'swimming' time.

The park and ride train service had us in SF by lunch time and despite me not really wanting to come at all we had a great day in the city. Even managed to get Hubby over the threshold of Macy's though it was only to use the loo!

We decided to pick up the bus and boat tours as there was such a short time to spend in the city. I know that the UK tours of London, Oxford and York have always delivered a fab way of seeing the highlights in a short time. Pah! If your ever visiting San Fran and want to see the highlights - buy a book. See Hubby's resume of the highlights for yourself!

On the plus side, the boat trip was fine and GC really rated the Bubba Gump kids fish and chips, which came in a cardboard boat, and cleared the lot without hassle from me. She was also quite intrigued by Alcatraz (the jail island as she calls it) and repeatedly asked who was put there and why.

The ride back to the train in the town cable car was atmospheric as the city lights came on and we could see for miles from the top of San Francisco's famous hilly streets. The day was made complete as we passed Lefty O'Doul's Piano Bar. I had been there 11 years before drinking their much recommended Irish coffee. Nice at the time but 11 years is still too soon to repeat that experience.

Hubby's Version

After a mess about in the RV park pool and spa we drove a short distance up the freeway to a park 'n' ride and jumped on a BART train into San Francisco proper. We alighted at Powell Street and after a short stop at the visitor info place we opted for a bus and boat tour combo package.

Three blocks to Union Square on foot was quickly done to a calls of "I'm hungry" from GC so we had lunch at a nice cafe in the square. We got chatting to a couple of ladies from Australia and so one and only daughter found some willing playmates with their offspring.

Ladies do playing

We joined the 'hop on, hop off' open top bus tour of the city which rattled past some of the sights accompanied by a rather desperate commentary "...this is a mural. Don't know what it means but it looks nice...this is a Pakistaneeee [sic] place. Watch out the food is hot!...here is a church..." You get the idea. 

We hopped off gratefully at Pier 39 to join our boat ride round the bay. We realised at this point we were not going to be able to hop back on the bus after the boat as the tour buses stopped running at 17.00hrs. What a swiz!

The boat ride was infinitely better and we got a close up view of the bridge with several kite surfers playing underneath and then a circuit of Alcatraz before returning, windswept, past the Sea Lions to Pier 39. This hour or so was GC's favourite bit of the day.

Kite Surfers under the bridge

Alcatraz

Sea Lions at Pier 39

A browse along the pier followed and GC was treated to some left handed items at 'Lefties' and then we adjourned to Bubba Gump's for a seafood based tea. We were given a table overlooking Alcatraz and it was even possible to see part of Golden Gate strait and bridge as the sun set. Gorgeous.

We had a lovely meal and the Coronitarita I had to drink was out of this world. The staff did a Bubba Gump style birthday song for GC, which consisted of lots of clapping and hollering. She hid under the table and who can blame her?

A Coronitarita. Nice!

View from Bubba Gump's at teatime

Definitely no 'hop on' bus to return us to Union Square now so we walked a few blocks down and got the Powell Street Cable Car, actually a trolley car pulled up and down the steep San Franciscan streets by cables under the ground. We were all quickly to bed when we got back to the RV park.

Cable Car being turned for repeat Journey, San Francisco.

Which Way Now?

Road Trip Day Seventeen

The weather improved as promised and by lunchtime the wind had dropped and the snow was beginning to melt. We spent the morning catching up on 'household' chores and then set off along the I80 towards Sacremento. We were not sure where we going to end the day but had pretty much given up trying to get to Yosemite.

Climbing on the I80, we were soon surrounded by mountain sides covered in fresh powder snow but the road remained completely clear. There were a few ski lifts dotted about and people skiing in the blazing sun. Some of them on piste but a few carving out thier own path in the otherwise virgin snow. Looked very enticing.

On the west side we dropped out of the snowline into rolling green hills, blue skies and t-shirt weather. We stopped at Sacremento and had a spot of lunch. We had to decide if we were to turn south or carry on west for San Francisco. After a little discussion we opted for a the 90 miles to San Francisco.

We entered the city via the very busy Oakland Bay bridge and followed signs for the Golden Gate bridge, squeezing the RV along the narrow city streets surrounded by unpredictable car drivers and large buses while GC practiced her reading by calling out the street names we crossed. 

The weather was lovely. We had an hour or so exploring around the view point on the southern side. The bridge is a little smaller than I expected but it is so graceful and the setting so dramatic it makes up for it with ease. It looked fantastic. 

The sun dropped to the horizon as we felt our way out of the city a short distance to find an RV park for the night. We planned to rest here for a day at least. Tomorrow we would explore the city. 

Hello from San Francisco

Unexpected DIversion

Road Trip Day Sixteen

We stopped at Bishop for supplies a few miles on from the hot springs. I also popped into a local Barbers. "Where you heading?" he asked. When I told him Yosemite he asked me if the passes were open. I knew the first pass over the Sierra Nevada's might be closed but never thought all of them might be shut. What we had hoped to be a 3 hr, 150 mile journey now had the distinct possibility of being a 3 day, 500+ mile trek!

We made haste and soon came to a sign informing us the first three passes were shut. Bugger! We still had a chance to cross on the 88 from Minden but that was not guaranteed. As we continued north with the Sierra's towering above us to the west the road carried on climbing and soon we up at 7000 feet. 

No way to Yosemite!

Weather signs were now warning to be careful whne driving in high sided vehicles due to increasingly windy conditions and there was also snow forecast for later in the day. We pushed on. The wind was a continual battle -  the fierce gusts challenging me to maintain steering control as they came at unpredictble intervals. My hands were sweaty as I kept a tight hold of the wheel.

Tired we arrived in Minden and refuelled. The 88 was open! The long straight road began a winding ascent after about 20 miles and shortly after the snow arrived. Visibilty dropped and still we were climbing. We risked being stuck on the pass or, worse, leaving the road in the conditions. We decided to turn round.

Doing a turn in the road using forward and reverse gears is something that doesn't normally concern me. However, when you are driving an RV with no view out the back on a slippy road where the edges are hidden by snow it becomes an altogether different prospect. Wifey was dispatched out into the blizzard conditions to help guide the reversing. Succesfully accomplished, we retreated back down the pass. What a team!

 Coming down off the 88 pass

We carried on to Reno to stop for the night before using the I80 to head west tomorrow - destination to be decided. We found an RV Park behind a casino/hotel at Boomtown. The wind and snow continued to increase and the I80 was variously restricted to vehicles with snow chain/tyres or shut altogether. The weather was forecast to improve over the next couple of days but it looked like Yosemite was no longer going to be an option.

Low Point, High Point

Road Trip Day Fifteen

Into Death Valley today. We climbed the road from Armagosa to cross the Owlshead Mountains before starting our descent to the valley floor a few thousand feet below. There was a fair fair bit of traffic on the road in and out including a biker gang and and several lone cyclists. Now, it is not the hottest time of the year and the Valley is not the cauldron it can be but this environment did not really inspire me for a bike ride.

We stopped for a look over the badlands at Zabriskie Point before continuing down and through Furnace Creek. The temperature was hot but bearable even without AC. The average March temp is 28 degrees Celsius but in July the average is 47 and the record 57!! We could not have come here in a rental RV at that time of year and I am happy to say I would not have been bothered by that restriction. It really is not a place to take lightly.

Zabriskie Point, Death Valley, California

Back up to Sea Level. Death Valley, California

We crossed the main desert floor, dropping below sea level as we did so and carried on through Stovepipe Wells before climbing the 5000 feet pass over the Panamint Mountains to leave the valley. There are signs warning to turn off AC before starting this ascent but the 6.2 litre petrol engine in the Ford F350 didn't even break a sweat - even with the AC running! Spectacular view back into the valley.

We passed through Lone Pine which nestles in the shadow of snow capped Mount Whitney - the highest point in the US contiguous states, Death Valley being the lowest. And all just 85 miles apart. I called Yosemite Park to explain we were not going to make the first night of our four night booking but expected to arrive the next day. The driving pressure off, we travelled north along the 395 and stopped 50 miles or so later when we spied a sign for Keogh RV park with hot springs and a swimming pool.

A lovely afternoon messing in the open air pool and spring before a relaxing evening back in the RV. Only 150 miles tomorrow to get to Yosemite and then time to forget the driving for a few days and enjoy some wonderful scenery.

Look at me Dad!

Keogh Pool and Hot Spring

Love Is In The Air

Road Trip Day Fourteen

Made an earlyish start from Kanab and was soon entering Zion National Park via the East Gate. This is a mountainous area and the park road winds around and through the park - literally. There are two tunnels on the road. The longer, Zion-Mount Carmel Tunnel being completed in 1930, is not wide enough for two way traffic if the said traffic comprises an RV or similar. 

The really large RVs, like the monster from yesterday, cannot come this way at all, but we just had the tunnel closed off to oncoming traffic and then had to straddle the centre line. Failure to do this would result in hitting the sides of tunnel with the vehicle roof. I offered the steering wheel to wifey but she declined.

The park is beautiful. Very different to the other parks we have seen. Small canyons, large  rocky hills and lots of greenery against the reddish stone as well. We were sad we could only stop briefly as we passed through the park. A slight diversion but really well worth it.

Scrambling at Zion

After Zion we had a lot of ground to cover. The plan was to head west, pick up I15 and follow that south west to Las Vegas, skirt north of Vegas and then head north west on the 95, stopping the night at Indian Springs. That was the plan.

Missing the turn off the I15 required we had to brave the Las Vegas traffic system. A stop at a fuel station provided a KFC bucket for tea and chance to buy a better map and soon we were on our way again. Indian Springs turned out to be just an Air Force base with no where to park an RV so we carried on climbing along the very straight road into a darkening sky above the Vegas desert.

After 40 miles or so we saw a sign suggesting a place called Crystal seven miles off the interstate might have refreshments and an RV park. When we got there we found a collection of mainly dilapidated trailers and a whorehouse. Wifey was not impressed but I was keen to attend one of the 'No Sex Tours' on offer. I didn't get my way.

The Love Ranch!

In the end we found an RV sight back on the interstate at Amargosoa Valley. Dennis the host was efficient and friendly and the place was very well kept. Soon after we arrived two RVs travelling together turned up. One of them displayed a 'Just Married' sign on the back. Not sure who was in the other vehicle.