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Friday 30 March 2012

On The Road Again

Road Trip Day Thirteen

No rush to get up this morning but still packed and un-hooked in good time, so we decided to visit the IMAX theatre across the road to view the Grand Canyon film. Wow! an amazing 34 min film recreating the human history of the canyon over 4000 years with some incredible footage.

Wifey and I loved it but GC was scared by the: Ancient Native American raiding party, the trapper who trapped his own hand, the Mountain Lion, the loud music and the explorers shooting the massive rapids in little wooden boats. GC now hotly denies being scared by the boats. Scaredy cat!

We drove out towards Page, the way we had come into the park and where we had been bused back from only yesterday. On the way out along the South Rim we stopped at Navajo Point for a last view of the Canyon. A place of superlatives and almost too big to comprehend. I loved it here but actually preferred my visit to Canyonlands which was equally spectacular in a different way and much less busy.  

Grand Canyon and Colorado River, Navajo Point
A long drive to Kanab to stop short of Zion National Park was really pleasant along 'Scenic Highway 89a'. We had an ice cream break after crossing the Colorado River. GC is really seeming to relax into the routine now after her illness and lack of enthusiasm for being away from home. Either that or she just loves ice cream!


Wifey and I got a little ratty with each other for a few minutes this evening. She exclaimed she was a little nervous about some dark spots all over the kitchen surface. She wanted me to open the cupboard above to see if some dangerous animal was inside was making droppings. I belittled her fears and fearlessly opened the cupboard doors to find the cause of the said pollution. I located the culprit and grabbed the offending article - a small coarse ground black pepper shaker which had fallen over. Yes, we had been attacked by a Pepper Monster!

Later, after Wifey had forgiven me, we got chatting to two nice ladies, Barbara and Donna, who were sited next to us at Kanab Coral RV Park. They are 'snowbirds' - people who get in their RVs and travel for several months of year to avoid the winter. They kindly gave us a tour of their RV. In it they also had two dogs and a cat and had room to swing the cat if they so desired. The thing was huge with a normal size settee and armchairs, proper double bed and seperate shower and toilet. A small flat rather than a vehicle inside.

We have seen these things up and down the highways. The size of a coach, they usually also tow a normal size car behind them for local errands/pottering when they are sited. I quite fancy the comfort and space they offer but at 6.5 miles to the gallon I'm not sure we could afford to run one for long!

Our RV next to a monster.
Donna and Barbara

Thursday 29 March 2012

Canyon River Adventure

Road Trip Day Twelve

One of the most eagerly anticipated days of our trip today - a full day of activities above, around and in the Grand Canyon and Glen Canyon. We were going to do this from Williams last week but the deep snowfall forced a re-plan. Good job as part of the adventure trip was cancelled due to the snow.

At the Grand Canyon airport at 06.00hrs for our one hour flight over the Grand Canyon landing at Page. The flight had seven passengers including us and everyone had a window seat. The views over the canyon, the Glen Canyon Dam and Lake Powell were absolutely amazing.

Unfortunately, the three point harness we were all required to wear meant GC could not see out her window unless the aircraft was banking. She described the flight as boring. We are complaining.
Grand Canyon. One mile deep!





Glen Canyon Dam
Not a great view for little people :-((
After a short wait at Page the seven of us were collected by a 4x4 truck and taken on a short journey to Upper Antelope Canyon - a fantastic slot canyon created by flash flooding and wind erosion in the local sandstone. I anticipated there would be loads of people milling about but as well as our party there were only a handful of others. I had most of the place to myself for photography.

It wasn't the ideal time of day for the famous light beam images this place is renowned for in photography circles. However, I am still happy with the images I managed to obtain and love the family shot below. GC thought it was boring here as well though. We are not complaining.

Antelope Canyon truck
Antelope Canyon. Love my tripod!
Leaving Antelope Canyon we were deposited back in Page at a rafting centre. After time for a coffee break and browse in the shop we were taken by coach to the base of the Glen Canyon Dam via a two mile long one way tunnel, originally used for construction purposes. At the base we walked down a small gangway to the waiting raft and our guide - Becky.

Becky was an enthusiastic and knowledgeable guide, being a biology graduate who had worked and still works on many local environmental projects. She guided the raft with ease while pointing out many features of the Dam and Canyon, explaining the local natural environment and entertaining us (?me) with stories of the history of the Grand Canyon from Native American times up to contemporary adventures.

GC took a real shine to her and the two of them went off looking for lizards. We loved this very easy going, child friendly raft trip and it's GC's favourite memory of the day. We are really not complaining about this section!

Glen Canyon Dam
Fishermen in Glen Canyon Dam
On a sand bar having fun
The Junior Ranger and Becky off lizard huntin'

Wednesday 28 March 2012

Valley To Canyon

Road Trip Day Eleven

The van had been buffeted by fierce winds all night but we all managed some sleep. Once awake we decided, sadly, not to go on the guided tour of Monument Valley and it was enveloped in a layer of wind driven, fast moving sand. The guides suggested we go in the evening instead but we had to make tracks for the Grand Canyon so couldn't wait. Still, we skirted the main towers on the road out and it was very monumental all the same. GC was upset as she really wanted to go on a 'jeep' tour with Mummy and Daddy after enjoying the one she did with me into Canyon de Chelly.

The road into Monument Valley the night before
We stopped as Tuba City for a bite to eat and then a little further on at some fossilised dinosaur tracks just off the highway. The area is within the Navajo Indian Reservation and as soon as you arrive you are 'guided' by a Navajo local on a tour of the main fossils, who all the while is telling you how many generations he has to support. No charge made but donations/tips taken - suggested amount $20.00 per person! He was OK and carried some water around to highlight the footprints. I gave him $20.00 for all of us.

Dinosaur footprints outside Tuba City, Arizona
The drive up to the south rim of the Grand Canyon was impressive. We stopped at Desert View - the first official view point in the park - and were even more impressed. GC also really liked the Grand Canyon Junior Ranger hat we bought her. 

Grand Canyon from Desert View overlook
We found our RV park and then I confirmed our tour for tomorrow which took a while. The lady in the RV park said the office was just a quarter mile up the road. I set off walking and turned round when I reached a mile with no sight of Grand Canyon Airlines office. Once back at the van, we unhooked and drove up the mile and half to the office to find it shut. I then decided to just ring the telephone number from a payphone and we were all set. 05.00 hrs start for us tomorrow!

Monday 26 March 2012

Sightseeing Delights

Road Trip Days Nine and Ten

Very quick post about the last two days as I'm knackered. All yesterday was spent at Canyonlands - 'Island in the Sky' - National Park and what an amazing place it is. This morning we visited Arches National Park which is also spectacular in a different way. We have barely scratched the surface of either park and I fully intend to come back in the future and spend some time doing some proper walking in these places. Wifey agrees.

This afternoon we drove to Monument Valley and are now at the only RV Park there. Tomorrow we are doing a half day guided tour of the valley and then have almost 200 miles to cover to get to the Grand Canyon for our all day Canyon River Adventure - a full day of flying, jeeping and rafting.

Happy to report Wifey and Golden Child now much improved. I just need some sleep. I'll let the pictures tell the story.

Schaffer Trail switchback, Canyonlands, Utah
Kathy the Ranger at Grand View Point, Canyonlands, Utah

Green River Overlook, Canyonlands, Utah
Decending from Delicate Arch Viewpoint, Arches, Utah
Wifey in one of the Arches, Utah
Me in an Arch, Utah
A view through an Arch, Utah

Sunday 25 March 2012

A Rocky Place

Road Trip Day Eight

We were going to visit Bluff fort this morning but Wifey was not really feeling up to it so we made an earlier start north instead. The aim today was to get to Moab - the gateway to both Arches and Canyonlands National Parks.

The drive was beautiful - spectacular rugged scenery with distant snow capped mountains. The roads were more interesting as well, having a few twists and turns to negotiate rather than long straight sections as on previous days. We passed through Blanding and then Monticello. I'd hoped to stop for a break in Monticello but as GC was now asleep we pushed on for Moab. She then woke a short while later and we pulled at the side of the road for a mug of tea and took some pics of the scenery.

A big rock (picture by Golden Child)
Back on the road a few miles further on I pulled in again. This time we were passing a large rise of sandstone and it had a 'Scenic View' sign. The sizable layby was almost empty. I swung the RV around to park and then 'Wilson's Arch' came into sight. It is a pretty spectacular hole in the rock caused by weathering of different layers of sandstone and salt. 

These kind of arches are not uncommon in this area but this was the first we had seen. I suggested a walk/scramble up to it and all three of set off. It was warm and sunny and the climb was not difficult but GC and Wifey both decided to stop halfway so I carried on alone, being joined by some other tourists at the top a short while later. Great place and cracking views.

Wilson's Arch (picture by me)
Me at Wilson's Arch (picture by Wifey)
Entering Moab we found the visitor information centre and I enquired about RV spots in the parks. Arches was full but Canyonlands, a little further on, likely had space but we would have to turn up and see as there was no way to confirm this. If it was full there was a camp just before Canyonlands that was bound to have places. 

None of these were RV Parks with WiFi, hook-ups, water, shops and food like the ones we had been in so far. They were all remote 'dry' sites, with just long drop toilet facilities. We had plenty of fresh water on board and could run a generator if the nights were too cold without heating, so this was not a problem and I was quite looking forward to it.

A short break in Moab at a local playground to let GC run around a bit was cut short as she found all the equipment too hot to touch in the bright sunshine. We made for Canyonlands and found the campsite there was full. I retraced the road a few miles to Horsethief campsite just outside the National Park and we chose an empty spot from the many there. 

Wifey promptly took herself off for a sleep while GC and I had some time together and went for an explore. After an evening meal GC looked knackered and was in bed by 18.30hrs. This is not a surprise really as we are usually up around 06.30 hrs and she is still not over her illness and is full of snot and coughs.

I managed to get a few shots of the night sky. This is something I've wanted to try for ages but unless you have 'dark skies' - a sky with little or no light pollution - there really in not much point doing this. I am refining my technique as I go but i'm quite happy with this one of our little camp site.

Night sky over Horsethief campsite, Utah (picture by me)

Friday 23 March 2012

Sick Bed Decision

Road Trip Day Seven

We had decided I would go on the tour if Wifey was feeling no worse. GC could have the option of staying with Mummy and colouring/playing Nintendo quietly or coming with Daddy to see some rocks. If Wifey was worse or GC had relapsed I was going to abandon the tour idea and spend the morning finding a local doc' instead.

I had to be up at 06.30 hrs if I was to make the guided tour. It started at 09.00 hrs but that was local 'Mountain' time and was an hour ahead of us. Wifey was feeling better for the rest but had no energy. GC was doing OK and wanted to come with Daddy. The trip for two was on! I had arranged to have a late checkout from the hotel room for er' in bed and we would all meet in the lobby at 13.00 hrs when the tour was complete.

GC and I were in the RV by 08.00 hrs and drove the few minutes to the tour office and booked ourselves on. We then sorted out breakfast and warm clothing. It was going to be an open back truck and despite a clear blue sky it was still cold. No doubt parts of the canyon would be colder still. I also packed some Freddie Frogs for GC and made a sandwich.

On the truck we claimed two seats and made use of the free blankets to keep as warm as possible. I wanted GC to enjoy, rather than endure, the tour and I really didn't want a winging 6 yr old on my hands for 4 hours. I'm sure the other 10 passengers didn't either!

Leaving the tarmac, we were soon driving through a shallow river and being bounced around. GC was amazed we were driving through water and seemed to be enjoying herself. The canyon walls were only 10 metres high at this point but as we carried on over the next 14 miles they rose to over 220 metres and were wind sculped in various fantastic shapes.

The whole canyon area has a long human history. There are a number of Puebloan Indian buildings built into the cliff face many hundred of years old. Later the Hopi and then Navajo Indians occupied the canyon -  the Navajo still living in parts of it despite being persecuted, evicted and massacred by white men since the Spanish arrived in America. It is a fascinating place.

Our Canyon de Chelly tour truck
Can we find some more rocks Daddy?
The tour proceeded well. The temperature climbed as the Sun rose higher. I snuggled GC up next to me under the blanket as the truck bounced around as much to stop her hitting her head on the rails as to keep her warm. She was quiet but seemed interested in the surroundings and evey now and then would point something out to me. When we got off the truck she was off running and playing like a shot - looking for stones and throwing them in the water, marvelling at the high cliffs, and challenging and beating me at 3 games of noughts and crosses in the sand!

We met Wifey back at the hotel after the tour. She was feeling better but was glad of the mornings rest. No doctor needed but we did collect some more medications from the local store before driving up into Utah to our next stop at the small town of Bluff. The drive was even more impressive than yesterday but GC still did not see much of it as she flaked out as soon as she sat down.

Found a nice RV Park and then we all had a little explore before walking up the road to Twin Rocks Trading Post and Cafe for a drink. I fancied a beer but Wifey informed me Utah is a Mormon state and so doesn't do alcohol. I ordered a home made Raspberry Lemonade which was very nice before finding out the cafe actually had a selection of micro brewery ales! GC ended up with two drinks and had great fun sliding down banisters while we enjoyed the warm afternoon Sun. All in all a much better day than it could have been.

Twin Rocks Cafe
Sprite or Apple juice?

Navajo Lands

Road Trip Day Six

We left Meteor Crater RV Park about lunchtime with the plan to head east and then north toward Chinle and the Navajo Lands - a fair drive of over 150 miles. 

Well the drive was fine. I find the RV a bit of tiresome machine to handle as its needs constant steering correction and getting up to normal cruising speed of 60 mph takes a fair while. However the brilliant wide vistas, dotted with mesas, buttes and spires under a clear blue sky on almost empty roads on the way kind of made up for it.

Wifey and Golden Child did not get to enjoy the scenery though. GC is still not quite right and her sleep is disturbed with productive coughing fits and now Wifey is not well either. She looks awful and is complaining of a sore throat and general aches and pains. They both slept for the majority of the journey.

Once at Chinle - the jumping off point for a trip to the fascinating Canyon de Chelly National Monument planned for the next day, it quickly became apparent that a night in an RV with no available electrical hook-up was not really what was needed and so I booked us into the local Holiday Inn for a night more conducive to rest and recuperation.

I would really like to do a tour of the Canyon but may need to spend time hunting out a doctor for some antibiotics if things continue to worsen!

Wednesday 21 March 2012

Getting Some Space

Road Trip Day Five

We woke early to find the trees almost devoid of snow and a definite thaw. It was still cold but there was not a cloud in the sky and the light was almost painful reflecting off the snow. We were away by 08.00 hrs. First stop Flagstaff about 25 miles away.

We called at the tourist info place in town, picked up some maps and a couple of Route 66 mugs in which to drink our Yorkshire Tea before driving the mile or so up Mars Hill to the World famous Lowell Observatory. I was quite keen to visit here anyway and as GC is studying 'Space' at school it was too good an opportunity to pass by. It was from here that Clyde Tombaugh discovered Planet X which we now call Pluto. We joined the 'Pluto Tour' which enabled us to look at the actual images through the Blink Comparator which led to Tombaugh's discovery and then went to the observatory and looked at the telescope he used as well.

Pluto Tour. Lowell Observatory

The telescope used to find Pluto
Later, Wifey and I had a look at the Sun through a Solar Viewing Telescope, seeing some solar flares as they were erupting. Try as we might we could not convince GC to have a go. She was adamant we should not look at the Sun through a telescope as we would be blinded. I blame that teacher of hers!

A quick lunch in the RV before driving another 40 odd miles to Meteor Crater - one of the best preserved impact crater sites on the planet. I impact site terms it is quite small but at 3/4 of a mile across and over 500 feet deep it is an awesome spectacle. We had a good look around from the viewing areas and then I joined the hour long guided tour along the rim while wife and daughter headed for the interactive museum. Good choice as GC would have been bored by the talk but I found it fascinating.

Meteor Crater
It was gone 16.00 hrs by now so we drove a few miles back to I40 and stopped at the RV park there rather than go any further. We had a early evening as GC is still not 100%. She is tired as is Mummy who has been up with most nights with her. My turn tonight!

Great starlit sky tonight with no clouds at all but too much light from the RVs for any really good pictures. Got to see some shooting stars though.

Tuesday 20 March 2012

Snowbound (almost)

Road Trip Day Four

Last night was a little dramatic as the fan/propane heater system decided to stop working and the temperature in the van got chilly very quickly. We had two thirds propane and were hooked up to the RV Park electric so couldn't figure it out. We then noticed the van supply 12 volt battery was dead so it looked like there was no 120 volts coming from the hook-up after all. I went over to the owners cabin at about 23.00 hrs through knee high snow and gave then a knock. 

The lady answered in her dressing gown. She said she would send her husband straight up and he duly arrived 15 mins later. He diagnosed the problem just as we realised one of the van trip switches had flipped, changing us back on to the battery from the mains supply without any warning. Problem sorted he cheerily bid us goodnight and we got the heater back on. GC slept through it all although started sleep-talking she was cold. We gave her an extra duvet and she settled down. She has no recall of the events today.
 
RV going nowhere!
Decided we were going nowhere when we looked outside this morning. The snow had continued to fall through the night and it was knee deep with bigger drifts in places. We had a relaxed breakfast and went out to have some snow fun. The RV Park manager (husband of last night) was clearing paths with a mini snowblower and we went snowballing and exploring. Wifey realised her artistic flair and made a snowangel and a snowman. Clever Mummy!

Snowclearing the American way!
On the kiddies slide
















Aiming to get Dad with a snowball



Snowman (made by Mummy)




The snow stopped falling late morning and I enquired if it was possible to drive into Williams, the local town a few miles away. Duly informed the roads to there were now clear I also enquired if we could have a path ploughed for us so we could leave the RV Park. No problem at all. It was done within the hour so we un-hooked and drove into town for nice lunch, grocery supplies and petrol.

Williams is another Route 66 town and also a gateway to the Grand Canyon so is pretty used to seeing tourists. There weren't many round today but the towns people were going about their business without any seeming difficulty with the snow. Most of the sidewalks were cleared and there were all kinds of vehicles with big ploughs bolted to the front as well as the official snow ploughs. Snow does not stop everything for long unlike in the UK.

Williams Main Street with the last of the snow being cleared

Williams the day after the snowfall



Monday 19 March 2012

Seligman to Williams

Road Trip Day Three

The snow arrived overnight as predicted. We woke to a blanket of it under a bright blue sky and a few wispy clouds. It was cold. Icicles had formed on the van overnight but we were still warm in our motorised home. The RV Park management had been out from 06.30 hrs at least (I saw them) shovelling snow off the main walkways but it was still an ankle deep trudge to the office for free coffee and a weather update.

Our RV in Seligman RV Park

Seligman RV Park
We were informed the road to Flagstaff was closed 20 miles or so ahead and there was more snow predicted later today. However, this level of snow fall was unusual and it was not likely to hang around for long. We retired to the van and had a leisurely breakfast and some family time. I got a few piccies and made use of the free WiFi internet to post a blog of the previous day and update my Facebook status.

We were not sure if we could get away from Seligman today but knew we could drive the mile or so back into town as the road here was clear. I was tempted to visit the RoadKill Cafe and there was plenty of tourist attractions to occupy a six year old for a few hours but the snow began to melt by 11.00 hrs and so we decided to chance Flagstaff. What's the worst that could happen? be forced to turn back?

The snow still lay heavily all around but the I40 was ploughed and gritted and the dual carriageway was clear. There was a fair bit of traffic coming from Flagstaff but a little unnervingly none but a couple of police patrols and a plough seemed to be heading our way. The road gradually climbed and after about 20 miles we reached Ash Fork where the road was now open but a warning was given about winter driving conditions ahead. We pressed on. Passing a few minor exits I soon realised even if I wanted to turn round now there was no way to do so. The exits were not cleared at all and were buried in drifted snow several feet deep.

The road narrowed to one effective lane and the surface began to be covered in drifting powder snow. We continued to climb and fresh wet snow began to fall which stuck to the windscreen, freezing solid and  resisting any attempt to move it with the wipers. Williams was the next town ahead and had a RV Park. We decided we would exit there (if we could).

The exit was ploughed but filling rapidly with fresh snow. I almost missed the turn as visibility was reduced to less than 30 metres. We made it a few hundred metres along the heavily covered lane to the RV Park. The uphill drive into the Park had been used at some point in the last few hours but was not ploughed and the snow was about 10-12 cm deep. I parked up in the drive entrance and made my way on foot to the office to enquire if they were open and if it was safe to drive in. "Sure. We'll get ya going if ya get stuck" I was told by the lady at the counter. I drove up and the RV hardly seemed to notice the snow. Directed to our hook up spot by her husband, I swung the rig in with increasing confidence. He told me I drove like an Alaskan which I think means he was impressed!

Outside Circle Pines RV Park reception

Not many campers today!

And this was before the second evening snowfall

Even the RV Parks have their own snow ploughs

It was just gone 13.00 hrs. GC was looking better all the time and we were now effectively stuck here for at least two days as the snow was only predicted to get worse. Thank goodness we have warm clothing, kiddy activities, free WiFI, plenty of food, alcohol and bottled water.

Sunday 18 March 2012

Lake Mead to Seligman

Road Trip Day Two

We all slept pretty well although GC woke a few times. She is certainly not over her illness yet but looks a little brighter after some rest.

Unhooked and away by 09.30 hrs. A few miles along the road we exited for the Hoover Dam. This was the original road between Nevada and Arizona in these parts but is a dead end now. The O'Callaghan - Tillman Bridge, part of the Hoover Dam bypass, provides for interstate traffic since 2010. 

Lake Mead RV Park
We passed through the inevitable security check point and then pulled over in a car park below the western side of the bridge. A little trip up to the pedestrian walkway on the Hoover Dam side in a very strong wind was rewarded with a fine view. GC was impressed even though she was being battered by wind whipped dust. She even made me and Mummy race back to the car park - of course I had to provide GC with a shoulder ride at the same time!

Hoover Dam from the bypass bridge
On down to the Dam. We parked, walked back along it and took some photos but decided against a trip to the Visitor Centre. It was my ambition to come and my itch had been scratched. Spending time in a tourist  crowd with a less than well child did not seem a wise move.

O'Callaghan - Tillman bridge from the Dam
The I93 to Kingman was monotonous for its arrow like straightness but went through some spectacular wide open vistas and after 90 mins we made our first proper stop of the day. We had decided to make this place our lunch break and quickly found a likely looking Diner. The service was all American and seemed quaint to me but despite there being a few tourists in the place it seemed popular with the locals too.

Elvis, Wifey, Golden Child and Marilyn
I went for a Route 66 Burger with Sweet Potato Fries and a Root Beer, Wifey had a Club Sandwich and a coffee and GC had three fries and a Sprite! While in Kingman I also located a Radio Shack and picked up a couple of US mains cables for my my chargers as despite bringing my international mains adaptor it wasn't letting me charge my electrical gubbins. The Netbook was on 7% battery!

Mr D'z Diner, Kingman
From Kingman we were on Route 66. It was a more varied highway with a gentle ascent to Seligman through majestic desert. Fantastic 'Western' countryside and we accompanied our trip with Mick Jagger singing about getting your kicks on Route 66 followed by some western theme tunes. GC even pretended she was riding a horse and lassoing a cow as she sat up front with me.

We found the RV park just through Seligman and soon registered. GC was tired and getting to Flagstaff wasn't essential today. I had hoped to see some see some great star scapes up here but the sky still had a 100% covering of grey cloud. We settled down to a snug evening as the temperature outside began to drop. The lady in the office had warned of snow tonight and not to leave water hoses connected as they would freeze. Who knows how far we would get tomorrow?